However, your efforts un-pinning and re-pinning locks will be time well spent -- you will progress much faster than you would if you tried to start out picking fully pinned cylinders. A total of fifteen red balls, as well as one each of yellow, brown, blue, pink, black, and green, were used. Pool is normally played with one black ball, seven yellow balls, seven red balls, and a white cue ball, however, the number of balls used depends on the game. In play, the object is to stroke the cue ball so that it hits the two object balls in succession, scoring a carom, or billiard, which counts one point. Now the plug is being prevented from moving by the next most misaligned pin (which, in this case, is the other pin, since there are only two). If this pin stack is slowly pushed up with torque applied to the plug, eventually its cut will reach the shear line and the plug will turn a bit more.

It can become very tempting to "cheat" a bit here and move ahead the moment you get a difficult lock open the first time, but that will only make the rest of the course that much harder. Move your fingers close to the keyway as you do this. Unfortunately, these designs are less than ideal, and many of the "standard" picks are too large to fit and move comfortably in common lock keyways. The basic principles of operation are essentially the same as those of the standard pin tumbler lock, except that the tumblers are exposed at the front of the cylinder and a round ("tubular") key is used. Some high security locks, such as those manufactured by Abloy and Abus, use round disk tumblers that are rotated into position by a specially designed key bitted with angled cuts corresponding to each tumbler. Many experienced locksmiths and expert lock pickers prefer "home made" tools to the commercial selections, especially for picking unusual and high security locks. The most common security pins are the "spool" and "mushroom" top pin designs, which are thinner in their mid-section. When you feel confident visualizing and using picks to maneuver around the pins in the AR1 and SX keyways, you're ready to start actually opening locks.

The keyways include Arrow ("AR1"), Ilco-Schlage-multiplex ("SX"), Schlage-C ("SC"), and Yale-8 ("Y1"). Continue with the AR1 lock board. You will need a small set of cylinders in various keyways, a board or vice to hold them in while you practice, and a small re-pinning kit (extra pins and springs and a "follower" tool). To pick this keyway, you'll need a small hook pick and a bit of twisting as you lift. Small digits represent short bottom pins (that must be pushed up more to reach the shear line); large digits represent longer bottom pins (that need only be pushed up a bit). If you're not in my seminar, the references to the lock boards in the lab don't apply, of course; you will need to configure your own training locks to follow these exercises. You must string to determine who will start the match, which can be based on an imaginary line (head string) or the number of wins (scoring string).

It won't turn, of course, because the cut of the (single) pin stack is still below the shear line and its top pin is preventing the plug from rotating. The top pin of the most misaligned pin stack becomes "pinched" at the shear line between the plug and the shell. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. Typical commercial and residential locks have five or six pin stacks (although four and seven aren't unheard of), with from four to ten distinct cut depths used on each. The height (or cut depth) of a key under each pin stack position is called its bitting; the bitting of a key is the "secret" needed to open a lock. A key that is bitted to the wrong depth in even one pin position will not operate the lock. The top pin of that pin stack will be trapped above the shear line, the bottom pin will fall freely, and now a new pin stack (the next most misaligned one) prevents further rotation.

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